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This is the first in my 3-part vlog mini-series on high quality PCB manufacturing, and introduction to my "make your own LVDC logic devices" project. In these vlogs I will show the specialized tools and equipment that you will need to make your own high quality PCB's from scratch, with step by step demonstrations of each stage - from rendering and checking the artwork, to applying the resist to copper clap boards, to etching, to drilling the PCB's, to component placement and soldering, and finally to defluxing and finishing.
Donate to help fund my YouTube Channel at http://www.frantone.com

By Fran

12 thoughts on “Make your own printed circuit boards part 1 – artwork and resist”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kidlathor says:

    Heeeyy its Fran.. is missing here

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mustafa Muhammed says:

    Thank you for your efforts. l need to ask you how can I find these tools that you use to manufacture PCB's . thanks again.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chris Lee says:

    We need to get you a better microphone

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ThomasTheSailor Chubby says:

    Way too Cute, How can I think about PCBs ?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Greg says:

    Hi Fran
    I love your videos, truly amazing… I have a question about solder paste. I remember long time ago I had build a xoxbox synthesizer and used flux paste that caused some problems with the synth drifting in and out. I couldn't figure it out as all components were properly mounted but after cleaning the board couple of times this issue was fixed so I figured that the flux must had caused some resistance between the connections. Now my question is which flux or solder paste should be used with electronic soldering. I have Oatey no.5 (the only flux paste I could find around where I live) I gotta felling that the reason for my vintage Amiga 600 motherboard is behaving weird after a smd re-cap is due to this Oatey no.5 lead tree solder paste as it might be designed for pipe soldering rather than for electronics. Could this case the problem? I know that some of that paste got under the capacitors so not sure how to clean it or even is it safe to leave it there? Thank you for sharing your knowledge!!! Big fan!!!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Piero Davies says:

    Hi fran… I'm pretty certain that millimeters are expressed as mm, not Mls (milliliters) If I'm wrong, I have been misled lol ๐Ÿ™‚ Always enjoy your adventures ๐Ÿ™‚

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rick S says:

    What I learned from Fran: Aviation shears rock. I never would have thought to use them to cut PCB stock. I bought a pair today and they work like a charm. Thank you

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars northerndarklight says:

    Yep. I made a light box about 20 years ago, originally just for my artist wife's use, but eventually I used it for perusing my old photographic negatives in my dark room. Mine is about two foot square. I made it out of scrap wood I have in my woodworking shop but I had to buy the Plexiglas I used. Never had a problem with hot spots, or heat. I used quarter inch white melamine for the bottom, and that seemed to disperse the light okay. The top is hinged and has a latch, so I can get in easily to replace components.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bernard Anderson says:

    Is this a drop-in replacement for an LS00?

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Greg says:

    Truly amazing!!!!

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MCPvideochannel says:

    I have one of those heat transfer clamshell presses in my screen print shop ๐Ÿ™‚

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Edgar says:

    OMFG!!! I can not WAIT to get into space!

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