Thanks Jerome for all the hard work and being generous with this contribution to the FranLab display museum!
More on the E1T here - https://www.dos4ever.com/trochotron/TROCH.html
Join Team FranLab!! Become a patron and help support my YouTube Channel on Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/frantone
#ElectronicsCreators #NIMO #Nixie
- Music by Fran Blanche -
Frantone on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/frantone/
Fran on Twitter - https://twitter.com/contourcorsets
Fran's Science Blog - http://www.frantone.com/designwritings/design_writings.html
FranArt Website - http://www.contourcorsets.com
More on the E1T here - https://www.dos4ever.com/trochotron/TROCH.html
Join Team FranLab!! Become a patron and help support my YouTube Channel on Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/frantone
#ElectronicsCreators #NIMO #Nixie
- Music by Fran Blanche -
Frantone on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/frantone/
Fran on Twitter - https://twitter.com/contourcorsets
Fran's Science Blog - http://www.frantone.com/designwritings/design_writings.html
FranArt Website - http://www.contourcorsets.com
Hi Fran! Been gone too long.
So happy to find you again, and share this. Way cool.
My inner geek was nuts.
Pc failed, no internet. Not fun.
Android it is for a while.
Have a good .
I think I might kind of get how the driver circuit you designed works, but I've got a couple of questions:
* What kinds of steps does one go through to design the circuit and come up with what you did?
* Could you do a video on push-pull in general?
Lovely tube, I have quite a few of them but have not energised them yet. I think if you can reduce the beam voltage you might be able to reduce the extra illumination on the other sectors.
First Mainframe I worked with (Operator first, Programmer, then System Programmer) was a Burroughs 3700 which had twelve Nixie tubes in it's console display, six for the Instruction code and six for the Address.
Something much like these were used as time display in a precision timer for photocells in my school back in grade 10. We laughed at the ancient equipment back in 1993 when the teacher would roll a steel ball down an aluminium bar and we 'd hand calculate its acceleration and speed…
The beam divergence (bleed over) issue an artifact of CRT-ish tubes. The average deflector voltage needs to be close to the Ultor (A2) voltage. In CRTs they solve this by applying opposite voltages to the TWO deflector plates (per axis) so that the average stays fixed. The E1T drives only one deflector, while holding the 2nd fixed. If you shift the second deflector, opposite of the first, you will minimize the divergence.
Anybody know precisely what make and model of keyswitches those are on the demo board? There is currently a Microsysteme Mazel II MC6800 board on ebay that appears to use identical switches, only one is missing/broken. If I could get hold of an exact replacement, I would be a lot more interested in this board (as would others, probably).
Oh Fran, you really do get to first person fondle the coolest s*it! I'm so jealous! But certainly not in a bad way. Wish I had something unique enough to send off to the crazy cat (htode) lady myself. One day.
This is super cool. I always liked vacuum tubes as a kid. I felt like they looked like rocket ships with complex domed cities inside, like something from the covers of Asimov or vintage Popular Science and Popular Mechanics.
Hello, Fran. I had obtained a piece of equipment from a hamfest back in 1972, when I was 14, called a Scaler. It contained two of the E1T "Bi-Directional Beam Deflection Decade Counter" tubes made by Mullard. The output of the second stage fed a 3- or 4-digit electromagnetic counter. It was this mechanical counter that limited the frequency of the input pulse stream to just around 500Hz. I found these display tubes fascinating to play with at the time. Thank you for the trip down memory lane! Bob
One Tip for all which like to use these cheap Perfboards. I´ve built some circuits with them, which in fact didn´t work as they should, because some of the holes were interconnecting to the neighbour holes. So better test the holes before using them.