1. Hi there I have been trying to find some info on ventilation for 3d printing enclosures. I was wondering what steps you took to do that. Like what kind of materials were needed and what not. Thank you.

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2. I recommend using Print Bite, it's an amazing build surface. You wont have any problems with materials sticking to it and once it cools, the prints just pop off. No scraper needed.

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3. Top infill looks a little sparse. I'd check extruder step calibration and retraction, especially if it's an all-metal hot end.

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4. Beautiful job on the hood. So cool how the printer works! Darn, I was born too early!

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5. More than 50 years ago,in my first job I made pathology specimen display jars for the government research lab I worked in. I have to agree with Fran in every way. We made our own cements using either chloroform or trichlorethylene. No respirators though in our lab, just wide open windows.

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6. why do you put the printer in a housing ? i doubt my $100 printer would benefit….. hahhah

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7. Pro tip, spot your drills on a stone to drill plastic or brass. You want 0° rake on the leading edge of the drill. Basically you want to effectively blunt your drill. This will help prevent the drill trying to pull through. Hope you can understand what I mean. If not then Google it.

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8. Yep. The new one is better. Since it's heavier it seals better than the old simple door. Now, what's left to do, is to make a dehumidified container around the spool holder, so you can print with all the hygroscopic plastics.
   And btw: 99.936 subscribers. Just 2^6 to go!

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9. I like how carefully and clean you handled the glueing of the panels. This is normally where i fail. congrats on the neat build. Thanks for sharing the video of it! 🙂

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10. Good design!!
    Thanks for sharing 🙂

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11. I love your videos your so honest and humble and realy good at explaining stuff

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12. When, EONS ago, I made a box for my (coat pocket) size transistor radio, I had to learn a couple of facts about the acrylic. The first one was that my full speed only drill was no-good for drilling it. Luckily I found somewhere a hint of using rubbing alcohol for cooling the acrylic as well as the drill bit. The process was to drill a little and apply more alcohol, then drill a little more. The really challenging moment was when the drill bit reached the other side. More of alcohol!

    For gluing, I softened the edge(s) with acetone and then joined them. After they were basically mated, then I applied some self made glue that consisted of thin strips or shavings of acrylic dissolved in acetone. The glue rounded the inside and outside corners and reinforced the structure. It never failed even when dropped to the floor.

    All that was before more advanced glues were introduced. And by the way, the transistors were made of germanium.

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13. I got something for You: Neurophone. I believe you can use a 555 or a pwm chip in first block. Modulate duty cycle with audio too (40khz carrier) a diffrientator and then another , out too the sensors/ probes. You can hear through the body, bypassing ears. find data… Low V.

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14. Regarding the Zaxxon standup, check for hairline crack around pcb mounts in rear board where wires come up to crt board. 2nd check crt pcb for hairline. (Crack is small and not complete, hard to see.) Appears to be missing a grid voltage and other lines. And yes, I know. Peace out.

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15. The new cover looks excellent! Now I'm picturing it with some nice cut vinyl stripes and/or an insignia…

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