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Join Team FranLab!!!! Become a patron and help support my YouTube Channel on Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/frantone
#franlab #LED #bulb
- Music by Fran Blanche -
Fran on Twitter - https://twitter.com/contourcorsets
Fran's Science Blog - http://www.frantone.com/designwritings/design_writings.html
FranArt Website - http://www.contourcorsets.com
I am curious if the "LED filaments" failed or the circuit at the base. Did you do some testing afterwards? My suspicion is that it was the circuit.
Helium would make for a better filling for these lightbulbs than air, as it would improve thermal conductivity and help cool the LEDs. Neon is also thermally conductive, but it's not nearly as good. Everything else is either worse than air, or introduces unnecessary flammability hazards.
I wondered if you were able to hold the file in a vise, then use both hands to maneuver the line across the file, to score it? Either way, your goal was accomplished. Aren't these LED bulbs supposed to last years?
Fascinating! I was cheering you on to open that bulb with nary a scratch. I'm especially interested in watching people take apart stuff to see what makes it tick. Maybe I'll learn something for my teaching career and/or my crafting hobby. Thanks, Fran!
I had some rather ridiculous happen recently where the glass bulb it self literally just separated from the rest of the unit and fell down and shattered on my workshop floor, thankfully i wasn't standing beneath it, this was a new LED bulb by Osram, so much for quality i guess, the socket with the led is still screwed in and lighting so i'll just leave it lol.
A glass cutter and 3 and 1 oil works really well…
I prefer the good new fashioned plastic bulbs because I can pry off the "bulb", reveal the LEDs on a board, and identify the bad one. (Tappitty tap tap. Yep, it's this one!) Replace it? That's another issue. I have not been able to remove an LED without destroying it. I tried my new "rework station" heat gun, and then after all the plastic melted away, the contacts stayed put. Then I tried a direct soldering iron to the contacts and still no joy. I suspect they're spot welded there. Maybe they get too hot for solder? I had it in my head I could take two bad bulbs and make one good one, and use the same donor to fix multiple flickering bulbs, but that's a no go. I was so close, I thought I could repair my LED bulbs! Thanks for embracing your inner Clive!
Good Job Fran.π«‘
theyre plastic now. grow a beard and speak like a scottish man.
Did you try shattering the globe to see what happens? It is probably coated on the inside with a silicone "anti-shatter" spray, which also doubles to give it that frosted appearance. It broke around the clear base where there is no coating so you sort of succeeded. The small end of your file is meant to be inserted into a handle, will make it easier to use.
every meth junkie: "yes"
The fault is usually caused by the largest value capacitor failing. They need to be air or maybe gas filled, to help cool the filaments or SMD LEDs.
I've opened tungsten element incandescent bulbs by carefully drilling a small hole in the base between the contacts, to let air in. That part was usually made from a tar like substance. I did that with a towel wrapped around the bulb in case it shattered as the air rushed in, but that didn't seem to be a problem, really. I then drilled a larger hole and set a bright white LED in to it, and wired it to DC via a resistor to limit the current.
On that one in the video, it looks like you could unscrew the base if you can desolder it well enough first – there's a blob of solder on one side, near the glass.